S'Ours

27th May – At 10.30 we set sail heading east.  First stop was Culatra Island just off the coast near Faro.  Had a great sail until the winds dropped, so out come the cruising chute and we were on our way again at around 3 to 4 knts.  Dropped anchor just off the island in the afternoon and had a very peaceful night. 

We had been told that we must visit the River Guadiana which is the border between Portugal and Spain and as the wind was still with us next morning we headed off early and after another cracking 40mile sail we made the river entrance and dropped anchor off the Spanish town of Ayamonte – good holding.  This is a good place to provision for a prolonged visit up river.  There is a large Mercodona supermarket (situated on the town bypass) within walking distance of the marina and a smaller supermarket right on the waterfront near the ferry dock and petrol/diesel available close by.  The marina wanted 5euro a day dinghy charge but we tied up to the inside of the ferry dock at no charge.  We were told that there is a Lidle in Villa Real but we didn’t go over there, maybe on our return trip.


We headed north up river under sail with the tide.  We need 20mtr clearance for bridges and had room to spare at low water going under the A22 bridge.  We have since been told it had been laser checked at 23mtrs HWS.  Approximately 1 mile north of the bridge on the Portuguese side (west) there is a floating 100ft pontoon belonging to a golf club. You can’t see the golf club and, no one bothered us for the 2 days that we stopped there.  It is a handy place with 4mtrs at low water.

The pilot guide is straight forward for the trip up river with plenty of water on a rising tide.  We made it to Alcoutim under sail on the one tide.  There are a few villages on the way that have their own floating pontoons where you can land a dinghy, will do them on the way back.



Alcoutim itself has 2 docks at 10.50euro a night for a 41ft boat, and fabulous free hot water showers ashore. Small Spar like shop ashore selling everything but not a lot of fresh veg.  Gas is available, petrol and diesel is not (6k nearest Petrol Stn). 

You can use the washing machine (2.50euro a load) at the youth hostel (own dock) 1/4mile up river from Alcoutim and you get to use their swimming pool for free (just ask).  Internet is free at the local Library with power supply and there is also a book-swap.  The local Tourist Office is very helpful.  On Saturday mornings there is a fresh fruit and veg market (very small) and a refrigerated meat van (excellent quality) to be found over the bridge and first turning on the right. 

Alcoutim have developed a delightful Lido where you can swim, chill out, walk etc. just behind the town on a tributary of the Guadiana. 

We were lucky to arrive when they held a 2 day festival there with live music, local produce, pastries (yum yum) and all manner of craft stalls – had a great time.

Sanlucar on the Spanish side has a similar pontoon with unlimited stay (always full).  2 shops and a baker (excellent).  Cheaper than the Portuguese side - 1 hr time difference and they also have siesta for 3hrs in the afternoon.  There is a high ex pat population this side and people are very helpful.  Smashing book-swap and David has hand drawn charts of the Guadiana for up river exploration.





We caught the bus to Mertola (Mondays and Fridays - 4 euro per person each way).  Well worth the cost of the bus, had a great day out (Castle shut Mondays).

There are lots of nice trails on both sides of the river that are well marked and which we made good use of. 




Packed up the rucksak and spent the day walking part of the GR114 on the Spanish side - hot but very enjoyable.

Like everyone says, it is very easy to stay here longer than originally planned.